The last stop on our Canary islands visit was Gran Canaria, which is approximately in the middle of the archipelago. We had travelled first to Fuerteventura, then to Lanzarote, finding that each island had a different character, and finally arrived on Gran Canaria, which yet again had different scenery and a different atmosphere. On this island the mountains dominate, with the highest peak being 1956m. Before Europeans arrived, the island was populated from as early as 500BC by a people known as the Canarii. In their language, the island was called Tamarán. There is a museum about this interesting civilization on the island, but unfortunately we didn’t manage to get there on our short trip. Continue reading
hiking
Exploring the calderas of São Miguel, Azores
In the middle of the Atlantic lie the paradisaical islands of Azores, volcanic islands rising up from the sea. Over the Easter weekend we visited São Miguel, the largest of the nine islands, and spent some days driving around the island, exploring its beauty. I’ve already written about the lush botanical gardens and the fascinating fumaroles we visited in the first day and a half. On our second day, while we were visiting the fumaroles, I had a sore throat, and unfortunately it turned out I’d caught the norovirus (gastric flu) going around my work. As an expat living in Germany I am susceptible to every bug that goes around, as they’re all new to me, so it’s like being a child again. So I had to spend one day in bed (Good Friday) feeling very ill, while a miserable J spent some time walking around the nearby town alone, coming back now and then to check on me and bring me medicines and drinks. At least he had the chance to watch the Good Friday parade. The only good thing about norovirus is that it is short-lived, and as Saturday dawned I felt well enough to face another day of sightseeing. The fresh sea air, beautiful views and warm sunshine lifted my spirits enough that I even had energy to do some hiking. We drove around the island to admire some of the magnificent coastal and hillside views and hike up the dormant volcanoes for amazing views of the calderas, large craters formed by the collapse of emptied magma chambers during volcanic eruptions, which had filled with rainwater to become crater lakes. Continue reading
Hiking in the fairytale forests of Czech Switzerland
In our area of Germany, which is relatively flat, any place with some hills gets named after Switzerland (in German: Schweiz). And so we have places such as Märkisches Schweiz, Mecklenburgische Schweiz and Sächisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland), which I wrote about previously. The Elbe Sandstone mountains with their wonderful rock formations formed by ancient seas extend across the border of Germany into the Czech republic, an area that was thus named by the Germans “Böhmisches Schweiz” (Bohemian Switzerland). In Czech it is called České Švýcarsko (Czech Switzerland). Continue reading
Outdoor adventures
So you love the great outdoors? Here are some of the blog posts I’ve written about nature, hiking, biking, swimming, skiing and other sports.
Hiking
The Disa hunters: exploring the top of Table Mountain
The Bavarian and Austrian Alps
Multi-day trail in Namib-Naukluft national park
The Thomas Tucker Shipwreck Trail, Cape Point
Battle of the Seelow Heights and a walk near the Oder river
Hiking in České Švýcarsko/Czech Switzerland
Snow hiking in the Harz mountains
Two late-winter hikes in Brandenburg
Cycling
An introduction to city biking
Brandenburg bike rides: Fürstenberg/Havel to Templin
Brandenburg bike rides: Potsdam to Brandenburg an der Havel
Biking in the Moravian winelands of Czechia
Cycling from Berlin to Poland in 1 Day
The Spree cycle trail (Spreeradweg)
The last stage of the Spree cycle trail (Spreeradweg)
The Elbe cycle trail (Elberadweg) – Magdeburg to Havelberg
Cycling from Havelberg to Waren (Müritz)
Watersports
Watersports and beaches at Müggelsee
Kayaking at Müggelsee/ Neu Venedig
Canoeing in the Rheinsberg lake area /Müritz National Park
Camping and canoeing on the River Havel: Fürstenberg to Burgwall
Canoeing on the Spree river: Hangelsberg to Erkner
Canoeing on the Havel river: Pritzerbe to Hohennauener See via Rathenow
Skiing
Cross country skiing in the Harz mountains
More cross country skiing adventures in the Harz mountains
Cross-country skiing in the Czech Republic: Hejnice/Smědava
Snow sports in the Czech Republic: Bedřîchov
Cross country skiing in the Erzgebirge (Ore Mountains)
Nature
Namib-Naukluft National Park
My father is from Namibia, a vast country to the north of South Africa, on the west coast of Africa. This country has miles of open space and desert landscapes, and is one of the least populated countries in the world, with a population of 2.54 per square kilometer.
We used to drive from Cape Town to Namibia during the school holidays to stay with relatives, and when I was a kid the scenery on the highway through the car window seemed endlessly unchanging. From far away, the mountains and koppies (little hills) looked dry and barren. However, go deeper into the Naukluft mountains of the Namib-Naukluft national park and you will find a beautiful world of kloofs (ravines), emerald springs, shaded riversides scented by wild mint, cathedral-like limestone formations, and evidence of animal life all around. This world is evocatively described in the book “The Sheltering desert” by Henno Martin, one of two German geologists who took refuge in the Namib desert to avoid being conscripted into the Germany army during the second world war. Continue reading
The Thomas T Tucker Shipwreck trail – after the fire
Last time I was in Cape Town, fires were ravaging the mountains. It was early March, and for days the blaze continued, spurred on by strong winds and dry vegetation. Fynbos, the indigenous vegetation in the Cape, requires fire every 15 years or so as part of its life cycle (smoke causes many seeds to germinate, and fires clear away old and dead plants), but the extent of the fires was large this year and it was sad to see the mountain burning.
At the end of August I returned to Cape Town again and went walking with a friend at Cape Point nature reserve at the southwesternmost point of Africa, where we came across part of the area burnt by the fires. There are many great walks here, and we tried one I hadn’t been on before, the Thomas T Tucker Shipwreck trail. It was a cool and windy day, but hiking is great in most weathers, I love to see how places look different in different seasons. Whipped up by the wind, the ocean looked fantastic, and you could easily image how many ships met their demise. The peninsula wasn’t named the Cape of Storms by Portuguese explorers for nothing. Continue reading